Il Laboratorio del Gelato
1 rating since posting on Wednesday, September 7, 2005
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In the summer of 2004 my friend Joe & I decided to sample all the gourmet ice cream places in the city. We hit the obvious such as Ciao Bella, Cones, and the overly praised Emack & Bolio before heading to Payard, Fauchon and Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. Cold Stone Creamery didn't make the grade, and is really more of a gimmick. Perhaps the greatest disappointment was Eddie's Sweet Shop in Forest Hills, Queens. Go there for the charming old school atmostphere. But the ice cream, while purportedly home made, is pedestrian. But Laboratorio has ruined me! I can't enjoy any other ice cream! Jon Snyder (who founded Ciao Bella in 1984 and later sold it) makes artisinal ice cream. His flavors change daily, and can be odd (mascarpone, black sesame, honey lavendar) but not outlandish (I keep urging him to make parmesan, and coconut cream cheese, but he's not big on combinations). But most important, his flavors are subtle. And they taste like food, not flavorings. His pistachio was tasted like nuts, not like some artificial additive. After getting used to laboratorio, I had a taste of Ben & Jerry's, and I was shocked at how overpowering it was. So I can see how some might find Laboratorio's flavors mild. I think of them as requring more of a trained palette. Let's not forget the incredibly smooth texture, either. Once again, the limited hours seem to indicate exceptional care. To balance my needs and Jon's hours, I've taken to buying pints ($7.25 each) to keep at home when the urge strikes after 6 PM. LOCATION: 95 Orchard St. (between Broome & Delancey Sts) New York, NY 10002 ++1 212 343 9922. info@laboratoriodelgelato.com Subway: F to Delancey - Stephen Kent , posted 09/07/05 |
